Sometimes 20-30 men go with the waves of surf to the sea, sit flat on oval pieces of wood their size and width, leave their feet directly, and use their arms to steer the wooden plank. They wait until the surf is the highest and paddle all together with the arms to stay on the top of the waves and rushing at the beach with amazing speed (…) ”
Lieutenant James King, the commander of the Discovery, described the Hawaiian surfing as the first European in the ship logbook in 1779.
At this time, war waves are a major part of Hawaiian culture. It is embedded in the society and myths of the island. Chieftains demonstrate their power through their surfing skills and the status of a citizen defined how well he coped with the ocean. Anthropologists can only guess the day of the origin of the surfing in the Polynesian culture, since there is no exact information about the time and the development of the Polynesians. Around 2000 BC Began the migration of people from Asia in the East Pacific regions. Hawaii reached the first Polynesian in the 4th century BC Diet, who took the troublesome route from Tahiti to Hawaii, characterized an extraordinary understanding and a boundless love for the sea. They brought their customs and customs with them to Hawaii. Also the surfing belonged.
When Captain Cook arrived with the discovery in Hawaii, war surfing in the history of Hawaii already firmly anchored. Places were devoted to legendary surfing events, and special rituals were developed to baptize new boards, to promote the Swell and to the men and women. Before the first contact with Kochkrieg Hawaii Strikt divided into classes, was also affected by the water: There were Reef & Beachbreaks, to which only the Häutplingen were allowed to surf and level for the normal citizen. Many of Hawaiai’s leaders were revered by their surfing skills.